Advances in the analysis and modelling of coastal response to energetic wave conditions have been driven by an increased recognition of the morphological impacts of storm events, associated with the societal costs of a growing exposure to storm-related coastal hazards. Exceptional coastal storms have caused intense human suffering and destruction, and their economic impacts are only expected to increase, emphasizing an urgent need to reinforce scientific knowledge regarding coastal processes and storm impacts.
Over the past decade, the coastal research focus on unconstrained linear sandy coasts has been progressively complemented by the recognition of the role of geological control (e.g. bedrock surface and sediment supply) on beach and nearshore morphologic behaviour, given the complex geomorphological setting of most natural and developed coasts. Nevertheless, understanding of coastal behaviour under energetic conditions remains incomplete, particularly in geologically controlled settings, and improvements in specialist knowledge must be obtained to anticipate and adapt to storm erosion and hazards, providing coastal management with information that will reduce societal exposure to a major cause of social-cultural and economic disruption.
On a European level, benchmark coastal projects have been developed in the past two decades addressing, amongst other themes, beach and nearshore processes on complex coastal sites (MAST-III COAST3D) and more recently the morphological impacts of extreme storms (FP7 MICORE). These and many other research initiatives have allowed significant progress in the analysis and modelling of coastal processes and coastline responses under storm conditions. However, despite advances in conceptualization of geological control on beach morphology there is still a major need to quantitatively constrain the impact of nearshore geological control. A comprehensive framework integrating hydro-sedimentary processes, morphological responses driven by energetic conditions in geologically-controlled settings, incorporating them into improved coastal modelling, is essential.
